The Night Lights



This is a night view from Conshohocken, facing west towards Upper Merion. There is some kind of plant nearby, and more factories beyond. The streak of light across the middle of the frame is a highway. And if you look carefully, you can see the Schuylkill River running diagonally through the middle.

Don't be fooled by all the bright lights -- this is a very long exposure (like 15 seconds).

The Layers of History: William Dalrymple's City of Djinns

(Note: thanks to all everyone who wrote in their congrats. Everything went smoothly with the move. No internet at home yet, though.)

William Dalrymple's City of Djinns: A Year In Delhi is exactly the kind of book I had in mind when I was putting together my "Travel Writers" course. It's thick with historical material: everything from 1984 to 1947, to the British Raj, to the Mughals, to Muhammed-bin-Tughlaq, and more. But it's also accessible, and just personal enough that my students found their way into it.

Unlike Sarah Macdonald's book Holy Cow, which is at best an introduction for readers without much background, I would recommend Dalrymple's City of Djinns to Indians, including NRIs as well as readers living in India. Dalrymple knows his stuff, and can find ways to make Muhammed-bin-Tughlaq and the historical writings of Ibn Battuta -- seemingly like dry and dusty topics -- come to life. But these more historical episodes are blended in with more contemporary issues like communalism in ways that are generally pretty seamless.

The earlier chapters deal with more recent events; Dalrymple digs further into the past as he gets deeper into his narrative.

The chapter on 1984 is particularly strong. Dalrymple meets some survivors of the massacre of Sikhs that occurred at Trilokpuri, including the one remaining Sikh family from the neighborhood (who are also profiled in this Express India story). Dalrymple also gets the inside story from a group of Hijras he meets. In both instances, he manages to get really good interviews from people we wouldn't expect to be very forthcoming with a foreigner. It's not quite the level of penetration one sees in Suketu Mehta's Maximum City, but it's pretty impressive all the same: Dalrymple knows enough Hindustani to move independently of translators or mediators, and it makes a world of difference.

The biggest surprise for me in Dalrymple's book are the enlightening discussions of Delhi's architecture. Dalrymple has some provocative insights on the design philosophy of New Delhi, and also comments on many Mughal-era buildings that are scattered around Delhi and elsewhere nearby.

First, on Edward Lutyens' New Delhi. Dalrymple starts by playing up its impressive feel:

To best appreciate New Delhi I used to walk to it from the Old City. Leaving behind the press and confusion of Shahjehanabad -- the noise and the heat, the rickshaws and the barrow-boys, the incense and the sewer-stink -- I would find myself suddenly in a gridiron of wide avenues and open boulevards, a scheme as ordered and inevitable as a Bach fugue. Suddenly the roads would be empty and the air clean. There was no dust, no heat: all was shaded, green, and cool. Ahead, at the end of the avenue, rose the great chattri which once held the statue of George V. Arriving there at hte end of the green tunnel, I would turn a right angle and see the cinnamon sky stretching out ahead, no longer veiled by a burqa of buildings or trees. It was like coming up for air.

This was Rajpath -- once the Kingsway -- one of the great ceremonial ways of the world. It was planned as an Imperial Champs Elysées -- complete with India Gate, its own butter-colored Arc de Triomphe. But it was far wider, far greener, far more magnificent than anything comparable in Europe. On either side ran wide lawns giving on to fountains and straight avenues of eucalyptus and casuarina. Beyond, canals running parallel to the road reflected the surroundings with mirror-like fidelity.

Sounds nice, doesn't it? But what starts out seeming like a comparison to democratic, post-Revolutionary Paris quickly gives way to an awareness that it wasn't exactly the spirit of democracy that drove Lutyens' thinking. Here is Dalrymple on the Viceroy's House (now Rashtrapati Bhavan):

Nevertheless, the more often I came and looked, the more I felt a nagging reservation. This had less to do with aesthetics than with comparisons with other massive schemes of roughly similar date that the complex brought to mind. Then one evening, as I proceeded up the cutting and emerged to find Baker's Secretariats terminating in the wide portico of the Viceroy's House, with this great imperial mass of masonry towering all around me I suddenly realized where I had seen something similar, something equally vast, equally dwarfing, before: Nuremberg.

In its monstrous, almost megalomaniac scale, in its perfect symmetry and arrogant presumption, there was a distant but distinct echo of something Fascist or even Nazi about the great acropolis of Imperial Delhi. Certainly it is far more beautiful than anything Hitler and Mussolini ever raised: Lutyens, after all, was a far, far greater architect than Albert Speer. Yet the comparison still seemed reasonable. For, despite their very many, very great differences, Imperial India, Fascist Italy and Nazy Germany all belonged to comparable worlds. All were to different extents authoritarian; all made much of magnificent display; all were built on a myth of racial superiority and buttressed in the last resort by force.

Just to be clear, here Dalrymple is referring specifically to the Viceroy's house/ Rashtrapati Bhavan in New Delhi, not to the entirety of Lutyens' architectural plan.

And while it's a very compelling bit of writing, the fact that Dalrymple does such a hair-pin turn on his estimation of Lutyens' achievement -- first admiring it, and then condemning it as an expression of Imperial arrogance -- makes me wonder. Does scale necessarily convey "megalomaniac" ambitions? Can we really read a politics into the architecture of New Delhi?

Susan Buck-Morss raises a similar question in her book Dreamworld and Catastrophe when she compares the monuments of Stalin's 1930s Soviet Union with the great skyscrapers and monumental architecture that went up in New York and Chicago during exactly the same era. Stalinist architecture is often interpreted as an attempt to awe the tiny individual man into acquiescence: look at what we can do. But why not read the Empire State Building or Rockefeller Center the same way? Buck-Morss shows that Capitalist monuments might not be so different from contemporaneous Communist monuments, which for me makes any simple ideological interpretation of architectural forms a bit doubtful.

Something similar could be said for Dalrymple's interpretation of Lutyens' New Delhi: is it the Baron Haussmann's wide boulevards and the Arc de Triomphe or Albert Speer and Nuremberg -- or both?

* * * *

Another intriguing comment on architecture appears in the chapter where Dalrymple talks about William Fraser, a Scotsman who worked for the British East India Company at the beginning of the 19th century -- when Delhi was still somewhat untamed by the British, and the Raj was still firmly rooted in Calcutta.

Dalrymple benefits from an accident of history: he happens to be married to a descendent of William Fraser, the artist Olivia Fraser (who does the wonderful illustrations in the book, and is a painter in her own right). Through Olivia, Dalrymple gains access to Fraser's letters to his brothers during his time in India -- fascinating material that you won't find anywhere else.

But Dalrymple also discovers that some of the buildings used by Fraser are still around, albeit neglected. The old Residency is now locked up, but interesting to visit nonetheless:

Saddened by the decay and neglect, we began to turn away from the building when, out of the corner of my eye, I spotted something which made me stop. At the back of the Residency, the plaster-coveed British masonry rested on a plinth not of brick, as elsewhere in the building, but of mottled pink Agra sandstone. The stonework was broken by a line of cusped Mughal blind-arches. The work was unmistakably from the period of Shah Jehan.

Although the building was locked and deserted, it was still possible to peer in through the old Residency windows. What lay within confirmed the hint given by the plinth. Behind the classical facade lay the earlier frontage of a Mughal pavilion: a double row of blind arches leading up to a central portal. The entire building was erected on the foundations of a much earlier mansion. It all made sense: when the Emperor gave the British the ruins of the library of Dara Shukoh, Shah Jehan's eldest son, they saw no need to knock down the existing work and start afresh; instead they merely erected a classical facade over a Mughal substructure. . . . in public establishing the British presence; but inside, in private, living the life of a Nawab.

Is it just me, or is this Fielding's house in A Passage to India all over again? Compare this description to a passage in Forster's novel:

It was an audience hall built in the eighteenth century for some high official, and though of wood had reminded Fielding of the Loggia de' Lanzi at Florence. Little rooms, now Europeanized, clung to it on either side, but the central hall was unpapered and unglassed, and the air of the garden poured in freely. One sat in public—on exhibition, as it were—in full view of the gardeners who were screaming at the birds and of the man who rented the tank for the cultivation of water chestnut. Fielding let the mango trees too—there was no knowing who might not come in—and his servants sat on his steps night and day to discourage thieves. Beautiful certainly, and the Englishman had not spoilt it, whereas Aziz in an occidental moment would have hung Maude Goodmans on the walls. Yet there was no doubt to whom the room really belonged


Both Dalrymple's version of Fraser's bungalow and Forster's description of Fielding's house are interesting on their own terms -- as descriptions of space and architecture. But they are also of course metaphors for the British Raj as a whole, which built itself on the framework of the Mughals to a sometimes surprising degree (especially early on). And with Forster's obsession with "privacy" in colonial India, and Dalrymple's allusion to the private, Nawab life of British officials, both writers are also hinting at the Orientalist fantasy that made the hybrid Euro-Mughal edifices so appealing: behind the modern, European facade was a desire for the unchecked, authoritarian power that would only be expressed privately (Fraser kept a large harem of Indian women; Forster had dealings with prostitutes procured by the Maharajah he worked for, described in the "Kanaya" memoir).

* * *
To be clear, discussions of Delhi's architecture play only a small part in Dalrymple's City of Djinns. But these were the passages that I found to be most provocative -- new to me -- in a book that is full of interesting material (see Dalrymple's account of partridge fighting, or his conversation with an Indian archeologist on the possible veracity of the events described in the Mahabharata!). Despite some of his recent controversial statements about Indian literature in English (see Kitabkhana for more), Dalrymple is a strong writer who slices through the layers of history to reveal Delhi's dil.

Conshohocken (Moving, Again)

We're moving again -- for the fourth time in three years, if you can believe it. We knew this one was coming; actually our current apartment was only supposed to be temporary, but three months turned into five months as our house-hunt dragged on.

We bought a townhouse in Conshohocken, close to the Schuylkill River and the scene in the photo above. 'Conshy' is a hip little town about 10 miles northwest of Philly. I find it to be an interesting place in transition: it was run down, but now it's being redeveloped and gentrified a bit. It's not as happening as say, Manayunk, but it beats many of the boring, hyper-suburban gated community type places that are scattered around central/eastern Montgomery County -- which were the main areas we were looking (for commuting reasons). Conshohocken, at least, feels like a town.

The house we're moving to is our first. It's a relief to finally 'settle down', though it actually wasn't an especially pleasant experience dealing with a series of strange sellers and rather difficult negotiations. We lost one house we liked in a bidding war and walked away from another when the sellers turned out to be insane (we found them on Craigslist; oh well). Through the process, we learned a lot about how the real estate industry works. While it's now pretty easy to find houses on the MLS database system online without an agent's help, agents can still help you out: they can shield you from irrational or dishonest people on the other end of a major business transaction. Also, for first-time buyers, real estate agents can be invaluable in guiding you through a formidable, complicated process: negotiations, contract, inspections, appraisal, mortgage, and settlement. So don't believe all the hype you hear about disappearing Real Estate agents!

We ended up with a house we're happy with, at a price that was actually within our budget. It's on the top of a little hill in West Conshohocken, with nice views of the surrounding Schuylkill River Valley and the town below. It also has a beautiful kitchen and a walk-out basement with built-in shelves and a desk built into the wall -- a perfect workspace for me. It's also close to SEPTA trains as well as a bicycle trail that goes along the river from Valley Forge to Manayunk.

It will take awhile before the internet is set up there, so blogging may be light for a few days. Til then, enjoy the view (or the larger version at Flickr)

Zadie Smith's Academic Tomato-Meter

Rembrandt, "The Anatomy Lesson"


I really enjoyed Zadie Smith’s On Beauty. It seems more mature and better-controlled than White Teeth, and I think part of its success is its relatively narrow focus and frame: it's a less ambitious novel than White Teeth, and that's actually a huge relief. Part of Smith's new humility is her explicit embrace of literary and philosophical precedents. Besides Forster’s Howards End (Etext here), which influences the novel’s structure and style in dozens of ways, Smith is also clearly thinking quite seriously about current controversies in theories of art and aesthetics. At the opening of one chapter she quotes Elaine Scarry’s On Beauty and Being Just, which gives the novel its title and perhaps also provides the bedrock of Smith’s broader argument on academia and aesthetic beauty. Here is the quote from Elaine Scarry used by Smith as an epigram:

To misstate, or even merely understate, the relation of the universities to beauty is one kind of error that can be made. A university is among the precious things that can be destroyed.

It's difficult to do much with this quote without getting into the ins and outs Scarry's interesting little book, which I took a stab at some years ago, when Scarry came to give a talk at Lehigh. For now, let me just say that I find it very provocative to think about the university not just as a workplace, but as a beautiful object unto itself.

One other thing, her acknowledgments, Smith also cites Simon Schama’s definitive book on Rembrandt, Rembrandt’s Eyes. (Here's an excerpt, and a review on Salon.com)

* * *
This novel is written with startling fluidity; reading it, one feels sure that Smith will, provided sufficient ideas and inspiration, be one of our most important writers in the years to come. Admittedly, I’m one of the book's ideal readers, a liberal academic schooled in poststructuralism and theories of hybridity, who identifies strongly with the ‘Belsey’ side of things in the book. Like Smith’s character Howard Belsey, I’ve been trained to place works of art and literature in historical context, and deconstruct cultural keywords, like “beauty,” “truth,” and “authenticity.”

But I’m also an ideal reader because I’m not satisfied with the aggressive deconstructive posture that argues that all beauty is culturally constructed, or that truth is always relative. I’m willing to keep an open ear to Smith’s character Monty Kipps, who plays a black British cultural conservative. Kipps is an academic superstar in England who takes a year to teach at "Wellington College," loosely modeled on Harvard.

Zadie Smith leans liberal politically, but On Beauty encourages readers to take seriously both liberal and conservative attitudes about beauty (which might be more precisely labeled deconstructive and positivist attitudes; it doesn't really make sense to describe an aesthetic theory as "liberal" or "conservative"). Indeed, while politically Smith is clearly liberal, anti-elitist, and enthusiastic about racial hybridity, she clearly finds the deconstructive posture on beauty a bit absurd. Belsey, her main purveyor of deconstructive thinking, appears deeply delusional about his own relationship to beauty and art. While he rigorously "interrogates" the myth of Rembrandt's "genius," his susceptibility to female beauty in particular leads him into a series of disastrous affairs, which bring down his marriage. But he is also shown to be profoundly susceptible to beautiful music, particularly choirs and glee clubs, which always provoke in him a mysterious, embarrassingly promiscuous weeping.

While some of this is played for farce, it does raise a question: is it possible to imagine a nexus of aesthetics and politics that combines progressive politics (and multiculturalism) with a positivist attitude towards aesthetic beauty? In earlier eras (and in the world of Forster’s novel), there was no contradiction there at all. The social divide between the Wilcoxes and the Schlegels in Forster is along the lines of liberal, egalitarian art-lovers (the Schlegels) vs. conservative, elitist, bourgeois Philistines (the Wilcoxes). To love art at all is seen as a somewhat liberal-slanted endeavor. Since the advent of postmodernism and the rise of the neo-conservatives, that relationship has been somewhat reversed.

Why can’t poststructuralists admit they love the art and literature they study and teach? Why is the possibility of a sincere affective response to art drained out of "theory"? Smith addresses the question in of the wittiest moments in the entire book, namely Howard Belsey’s refusal to "love the tomato." The "tomato" is a kind of skeptics' shibboleth for the rhetorical object that defines various Humanities classes at Wellington:

‘Professor Simeon's class is 'The tomato's nature versus the tomato's nurture,' and Jane Colman's class is 'To properly understand the tomato you must first uncover the tomato's suppressed Herstory’ . . . and Professor Gilman's class is 'The tomato is structured like an aubergine,' and Professor Kellas's class is basically 'There is no way of proving the existence of the tomato without making reference to the tomato itself,' and Erskine Jegede's class is 'The post-colonial tomato as eaten by Naipaul.' . . . But your class – your class is a cult classic. I love your class. Your class is all about never ever saying I like the tomato.'

Of course, for Victoria Kipps the deconstructive refusal to like the tomato isn’t even a flaw. She goes on to suggest (though it’s possible she means it ironically) that Belsey’s passionate scrutiny of an artist he says he doesn’t like (Rembrandt) is her idea of "rigour":

‘Because that’s the worst thing you could ever do in your class, right? Because the tomato’s not there to be liked. That’s what I love about your class. It’s properly intellectual. The tomato is just totally revealed as this phoney construction that can’t lead you to some higher truth – nobody’s pretending the tomato will save your life. Or make you happy. Or teach you how to live or ennoble you to be a great example of the human spirit. Your tomatoes have got nothing to do with love or truth. They’re not fallacies. They’re just these pretty pointless tomatoes that people, for totally selfish reasons of their own, have attached cultural – I should say nutritional weight to.’


This sounds like flattery, not mockery, though it’s probably dangerous to take Victoria Kipps’s arguments as truly sincere given that she’s Monty Kipps’ daughter (Monty Kipps being the black conservative superstar mentioned above), who is about to have a disastrous affair with Belsey -- her father's arch-rival. At the beginning of this conversation, Belsey's refusal to love the tomato was proposed as a challenge; by the end, Victoria's enthusiasm for Belsey's "rigour" is closer to flirtation.

However we interpret the tone of the passage, what we're left staring at is the tomato, a figure of speech that humanities teachers and scholars should take as a serious provocation. It's hard to be sanguine that such a simple metaphor could provide an effective index by which to characterize our intellectual pursuits. One might be tempted to resist Zadie Smith, but it might be more productive to see the prevalence of tomato-based thinking, and fight the temptation to take shortcuts and apply reductive formulas in our scholarship and teaching.

So is Smith arguing that we should learn to love our respective tomatoes, whatever they may be? Or are we to disavow all traces of reductivist thinking, and throw out our tomatoes altogether? That's the part I haven't quite decided on yet.


Francoise Eliaissaint, "Erzulie" (Haitian spirit of love, beauty, jewelry, dancing, luxury and flowers)

Why Manu Sharma Got Away With It

[UPDATE TO THIS POST FROM DECEMBER 2006: The prior ruling has been overturned, and Manu Sharma has now been found guilty. Most of my views on the problems in the Indian legal system remain -- this new ruling has happened in large part because of the popular outcry against the earlier not-guilty verdict.]

* * *

Contrary to what Somini Sengupta argues in today's New York Times, Manu Sharma's acquittal in the Jessica Lal murder case is not only about India's class hierarchy. In fact the rate of conviction in criminal cases in the Indian legal system is incredibly low across the board. If Manu Sharma had been a taxi driver, he still could have gotten off. (Yes, it would have been less likely, but it happens every day.)

There are severe flaws in the Indian Evidence Act of 1872. See especially Sections 25-29:

25. Confession to police officer not to be proved
No confession made to a police officer shall be proved as against a person accused of any offence.

26. Confession by accused while in custody of police not to be proved against him
No confession made by any person whilst he is in the custody of a police officer, unless it be made in the immediate presence of a Magistrate, shall be proved as against such person.


27. How much of information received from accused may be proved:
Provided that when any fact is deposed to as discovered in consequences of information received from a person accused of any offence, in the custody of a police officer, so much of such information, whether if amounts to a confessions or not, as relates distinctly to the fact thereby discovered, may be proved.

29. Confession otherwise relevant not to become irrelevant because of promise of secrecy, etc.
If such a confession is otherwise relevant, it does not become irrelevant merely because it was made under a promise of secrecy, or in consequence of a deception practised on the accused person for the purpose of obtaining, it, or when he was drunk, or because it was made in answer to questions which he need not have answered, whatever may have been the form of those questions, or because he was not warned that he was not bound to make such confession, and that evidence of it might be given against him. (link)

In short, the laws governing when confessions are valid are full of loopholes that were, in the Jessica Lal murder case, exploited by the defense. As I understand it, these protections of the defendant were introduced to reduce the prevalence of confessions produced by torture. But what the rule has done instead is make the standard of "relevance" too high. Even with a direct confession of guilt, the defendant can find a way to have it later thrown out through one or another loophole.

There are similar problems with the rules for Witnesses in the Indian Evidence Act -- so it's quite common to have witnesses withdraw their testimony, especially after money is deposited in a bank account somewhere for them. (There should be a word for such funds: testimoney.)

The entire Act is still the central text in Indian criminal law. It's been modified some over the years, but the footnotes on Helplinelaw don't have any modifications dated after 1951.

My sense is, it's time to throw out large sections of the code, and rebuild it along more modern lines. Maybe now that the politicians and the justice system are feeling the heat, there might be the willpower to seriously get this process rolling (though unfortunately all that is likely to happen is the formation of yet another committee).

Incidentally, the Indian Evidence Act is largely responsible for the mess of the Best Bakery Case (it's too easy for witnesses to change their testimony). Admittedly, the involvement of extremely unethical witnesses (Zaheera Sheikh) didn't help matters. It also explains why torture by police (see Maximum City) has become so routine and expected: the police know that suspects in custody aren't likely to be convicted, so they impose some of their own rough justice.

* * *
Another incidentally: unfortunately, I share most of a name ("Amardeep Singh Gill") with one of the witnesses who changed his testimony. Mr. Gill was also charged with tampering with and destroying evidence, and was acquitted alongside Manu Sharma. Feels a bit weird...

Cloudburst


The world falls forward in the morning, these days.
No rhyme, reason, or rhythm these days.
All that is true may not be expressed, these days.
And all that is desired is expected, one of these days.

I'm Dajjled by the Zournalism at the Times of India

I know, it's an easy and familiar target, but I was tickled by this slip in today's TOI Kanpur:

Is the Indian film industry ready for awards for the best among the worst performances on the lines of Hollywood's Reggie Awards?

For all of you who think that Bollywood is far too 'inspired' by Hollywood, there are still some things from the wild, wild West that clearly do not inspire the folks from India's filmi duniya.

Which is probably why the idea of an awards ceremony to acknowledge the worst performances in filmdom, on the lines of the Reggie Awards in Hollywood, hasn't found favour with the celeb brigade.

While Hollywood takes a tongue-in-cheek look at the best among the worst performances in films, actress Koena Mitra thinks the concept is "disgusting"!

It's always striking when they don't even bother to check a half-remembered name. I know, no one is perfect on this score (I myself am prone to misspell the word "Telugu" quite often). But the Times of India is India's biggest English-language daily!

Airing the Dirty Laundry: Burnt Bread and Chutney

I picked up Carmit Delman's memoir Burnt Bread and Chutney: Growing Up Between Cultures--A Memoir of an Indian Jewish Girl, on the recommendation of commentor Piaw (who has many challenging posts on her blog). Delman's mother is an Indian Jew originally from the Bene Israel community in Bombay, and her father is an Orthodox Jew of Eastern European descent from New York. Delman herself grew up mostly in New York, with some brief stints in Israel.

I'm about two-thirds through it, and I have to say that I'm not that thrilled about the book, though I am learning things here and there. It's a little too much a memoir of growing up and going to school in the U.S. while being "different," which isn't especially interesting per se. What's more interesting to me is the sense of alienation Delman's family often felt even within the American Jewish community. Sitting in the back of the synagogue, people would often ask Delman and her siblings about their background:

When we explained that we were the mixture of an Indian Jew and an Eastern European Jew, people automatically identified us by the brownness and what made us nonwhite. Their assumptions drew a distinct line between us and them. 'So,' they said, after hearing about the thousands of years of history. 'I guess generations ago, the Jews in India must have intermarried with the Hindus. That's how you have that beautiful brown color.' They even said this laughing admiringly, as though envious of our tan. But in making such a statement, they . . . were also pointing to us as the others and claiming, the skin says it all. We, Ashkenazi Jews, are the pure originals. You, Indian Jews, are mixed products.

It's interesting (and perhaps a little sad) to see a kind of racial logic operating even within Judaism.

But the most interesting passages in Burnt Bread and Chutney are Delman's observations on her travels on her own to Israel, to spend her summer vacations working on a kibbutz. At one point, she meets a middle aged Israeli reservist smoking a cigarette while on duty in Jerusalem. He asks her where she's from, and she says, "Guess":

He grinned, took a deep puff on his cigarette, thinking. 'Emm. Let's see. Ramle?' I shook my head, surprised to hear this particular city suggested. 'Well, you're Yemenite, right? So I would guess Dimona maybe.'

Now I followed his line of thought. Well-off and educated Israelis of Eastern European descent lived in the nice suburbs. But early on, the Israeli government had filled these particular cities that he was suggesting with large populations of poorer Jewish immigrants from the African and Arab nations. Clumped together, this persecuted a cycle of little money and lots of crime, with not many opportunities in work or eductation to even the score. Because I was brown, this man assumed I had come from that world. Perhaps he even hered me into the class-genus-species of the chach-chach. A chach-chach was usually seen in its natural habitat, making a living by selling sandwiches, cheap barrettes, CDs, and authentic discounted Israeli brassware in one of those neighborhoods or at the central bus station. A chach-chach spoke with guttural slang and listened to the kind of oriental music in which voices wavered and whined and shuddered themselves into a high fever. The male wore gold chains and had slick hair. The female birthed often and early. And she could usually be spotted wearing a plumage of bright lipstick.

I hadn't heard this perjorative term ("chach-chach") before, but I googled it, and came across some rather unfortunate song lyrics in an Israeli discussion forum that confirms Delman's usage of it. I guess we could call it a bit of Israeli dirty laundry. (Everyone has some to contend with of course.)

* * *
By pleasant coincidence, this morning Ruchira has posted a long review of Nathan Katz's book Who Are the Jews of India?. Katz makes the interesting claim that the Jewish communities in India were never persecuted -- unlike their counterparts throughout Europe and the Arab World:

"Indian Jews lived as all Jews should have been allowed to live: free, proud, observant, creative and prosperous, self-realized, full contributors to the host community. Then, when twentieth century conditions permitted they returned en masse to Israel, which they had always proclaimed to be their true home despite India's hospitality. The Indian chapter is one of the happiest of the Jewish Diaspora."

A Note on the Terrorist Bombing in Varanasi

As most readers probably know, a series of bombs recently went off in Varanasi (Benaras), killing 25 people and wounding at least 50 more. One of the bombs went off in a major Hindu temple complex, called Sankat Mochan. It might well have been a preventable incident: officials have acknowledged that while new security measures have been introduced at many major Mandirs around the country, Sankat Mochan was not on that list.

Two other interesting facts: the bomb in the temple was placed in a pressure cooker, which is something I've never heard of before (doesn't it seem like a dumb place to put a bomb?). Also, there a wedding video was being filmed at the temple (a wedding was in progress) when the bombs went off, which may be helpful in finding the culprits.

Two militants have been killed by police following the bombings, one in Lucknow and the other in Delhi. Police say the one in Lucknow was carrying explosives, and that he was a member of the dreaded Lashkar-e-Taiba. It's good that the police are being aggressive in pursuing the people responsible for this senseless act of terror, but I wish the police learned how to detain these guys instead of killing them, so we could actually find out what they know. Indeed, the huge cloud of confusion that often hangs over terrorism investigations in India could be reduced if police changed their tactics and introduced a version of what in America is called "due process." (But perhaps it's understandable at least in the case of the militant killed in Lucknow: you don't want to take chances with someone armed with RDX.)

Following a terrorist attack like this, there should only be three items on the agenda: 1) bring the people who did it to justice, 2) mourn the loss of life, and 3) make sure you have security in place so it hopefully never happens again. All discussions of whether Islam encourages terrorism and so on are superfluous, and the emotional reactions you see from some quarters are unproductive.

Unfortunately, that straightforward agenda is not what we have in store. The BJP instituted a Bandh (an involuntary, city-wide strike/curfew), which actually seems like it might be a good idea in terms of minimizing recriminatory violence. But Advani has announced that he's planning a national Padyatra, clearly hoping to exploit the tragedy to build up some momentum for his party. (Interestingly, ex-BJP member Uma Bharti has said -- quite reasonably -- that a Padyatra isn't necessary, because the onus of security is on the state rather than the national government.)

Two days have passed without any sign of recriminatory violence (other than the deaths of suspected militants at the hands of police). To me that says there isn't going to be any spontaneous upwelling of anger directed against Muslims, either in Varanasi or elsewhere. If there is going to be violence, it is going to be the kind that is ignited, fanned, and directed by BJP-VHP politicians. Ordinary people are ready to go about their business, trusting that the government will get to the bottom of this (indeed, large crowds are already returning to Sankat Mochan).

Ali Farka Touré

Ali Farka Touré died this past weekend, at the (approximate) age of 67.

It is dangerous to make any big pronouncement about Touré's music, especially since I have only two albums, Talking Timbuktu and Radio Mali. Suffice it to say that along with Amadou and Mariam, my Malian blues CDs have gotten a lot of play in my house. Touré sings in Malian languages like Peul (or Fula) and Tamasheck, which I obviously don't understand. But there is something quietly powerful about the his guitar playing and the sound of the vocals nonetheless. It's a sound that is warm and real -- the best word for it might be "soul-restoring."

As with Nigerian Fela Kuti, in crafting his sound Touré took his local musical traditions and instruments (like the Njarka, a one-stringed violin) and melded them with an emerging musical form from African American music -- in this case, the guitar blues of people like John Lee Hooker. (For his part, Fela Kuti adapted James Brown and Afro-American funk. It's an interesting circle of influence, as musicologists have widely recognized that the blues itself likely derives from west African and Arabic musical styles. So these west African musicians were re-appropriating a style of music that their own ancestors had effectively invented, but which had turned into something quite different through the mediating effects of the Middle Passage and the U.S. popular culture machine.

The Malian scholar Manthia Diawara, who teaches African film at NYU, writes about some of these interesting cross-Atlantic cultural currents in an article here. For Diawara, the borrowing and experimentalism of musicians like Touré and Sali Keita is all a product of the energy and optimism of the 1960s -- youth style in Bamako.

Like Pakistani Qawwali singer Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan, Ali Farka Touré's popularity in the west was jump-started through the efforts of a western producer (in this case, Ry Cooder), who added an additional degree of fusion and a high-gloss production quality in the CDs he did with Touré. These are the CDs that first got distributed in large numbers on major labels in the U.S., and they are, admittedly, the CDs that found their way into my collection some years ago.

I would highly recommend a 25 minute session with Ali Farka Touré that you can listen to via streaming audio at Afropop Worldwide. Bonnie Raitt is the host, but most of the session is just music. Give it a try; you can put it on in the background and do other stuff.

And here is the most detailed biography of Ali Farka Touré I could find on the internet.

Norman Corwin, Poet Journalist

I was intrigued by the Oscar for short documentary, A Note of Triumph: The Golden Age of Norman Corwin (IMDB). So I looked up Corwin, and was impressed by the beauty of the fragments of his writing that are floating around on the internet.

The documentary that won the Oscar looks back at the legendary piece Corwin did celebrating V-E Day, called "On a Note of Triumph." Here is a bit from the end of Corwin's original piece, a "prayer":

Lord God of test-tube and blueprint
Who jointed molecules of dust and shook them till their name was Adam,
Who taught worms and stars how they could live together,
Appear now among the parliaments of conquerors and give instruction to their schemes:
Measure out new liberties so none shall suffer for his father's color or the credo of his choice:
Post proofs that brotherhood is not so wild a dream as those who profit by postponing it pretend:
Sit at the treaty table and convoy the hopes of the little peoples through expected straits,
And press into the final seal a sign that peace will come for longer than posterities can see ahead,
That man unto his fellow man shall be a friend forever. (longer excerpt here)


What does the style remind you of? I get equal parts Abraham Lincoln and Walt Whitman. I'm not saying I absolutely love the writing, but rather that I'm surprised and impressed that this type of lyricism was once acceptable in mainstream journalism. Perhaps it works best when reserved for extraordinary circumstances: it would have been thrilling to hear it on the radio at the end of World War II.

Another breakthrough piece by Corwin is "They Fly Through The Air With The Greatest of Ease" (1939), about the Italian bombardment of Spain during the Civil War. Here's a snip from an audio excerpt on Corwin's own homepage (see a partial transcription here):

Here, where last year stood the windrows of the hay
Is now an aviary of such birds
As God had never dreamed of when he made the sky.
Look close, and you will see one now.
They are wheeling it out of the hangar.
Carefully.
Oh, do be careful, gentlemen.
It is so dumbly delicate:
Its fabrics and its metals, its gears, its cylinders, its details,
The million dervishes ready to whirl in its motors,
The guns fore and aft,
The sights, the fins, the fuselage,
The bomb racks and the bombs.
Do not jar them; do not jar them, please.
Be gentle, gentlemen.
This bomber is an instrument of much precision,
a mathematical miracle
As cold and clean and noble as a theorem.
See here: Have you no eye for beauty?
Mark how its nose, be-chromed and tilting toward the heavens
Reflects the morning sun and sniffs the lucent air.


And here's a second snippet I found from the same story, which follows up on the idea of the "theorem," only after the planes have crashed:

That's all.
That's all the fighting they will care to do.
They have a treaty with the earth
That never will be broken.
They are unbeautiful in death
Their bodies scattered and bestrewn
Amid the shattered theorem.
There is a little oil and blood
Slow draining in the ground.
The metal is still hot, but it will cool.
You need not bother picking up the parts.
The sun has reached meridian.
The day is warm.
There's not a ripple in the air. (link)


To my ear, these snippets sound less like Whitman and more like Carl Sandburg.

* * * * *
More Corwin links:

--A satisfying 12 minute audio interview with Corwin on NPR's "Lost and Found Sound."

--An in-depth text interview at Crazy Dog Audio Theatre.

--Norman Corwin's web site. Corwin sells tapes and transcripts (including e-books!) of his stuff. You can hear excerpts from some of his pieces; I would particularly recommend "They Fly Through The Air..."

--A piece in the L.A. Times that ties Corwin to Edward R. Murrow, who was also 'revived' this year in George Clooney's gripping Good Night, and Good Luck.

--A timeline of the "Golden Age of Radio, 1936-1950." TV killed the radio stars... including Murrow himself.

--"Good Can Be As Communicable As Evil, a piece by Corwin, for NPR.

Spring Break Links: Blog, Blog, Blah

--We all need a little break from email. I tend to have small classes -- and I only teach a 2/2 load -- but I still can't quite keep up with all the student emails I get.

--Online colleges are going to find it easier to get aid packages from the U.S. government. I'm not surprised these enterprises are succeeding, but I haven't heard anything yet to suggest that a person could get a serious education through them. What's more interesting is the large number of traditional colleges and universities (including my own) that are branching out into online education. The ability to do online courses through established schools might challenge the way we think about admissions and the structure of post-secondary education. What if small universities and liberal arts colleges decide to band large numbers of online courses together, and form conglomerate entities? Could students be "admitted" merely for the purpose of taking a particular online course, or studying with a particular professor?

--William Safire on "Blargon". Blogging, as all you blogerati undoubtedly already know, generates tons of medium-specific jargon, though much of it is borrowed from terms in journalism ("the jump," the "sidebar," "above the fold"). Many blog-words try and incorporate the word "blog" in some way to indicate their context: "blogorrhea." In some ways, it reminds me of the once-trendy musical genre called Ska, which generated hundreds of bands that incorporated the word "ska" in some way into their names. Here I'm thinking of the legendary Jamaican band called The Skatalites, but also lesser known "third wave" ska bands like "Ska Humbug," "The Skadillacs," "Skaface," "The Skaflaws," "Skali Baba and the Forty Ounce Horns," "Skankin Pickle," "Skarab," "Skarotum," "Skatland Yard," and so on. (Just so you know where I'm getting that list from, it's this FAQ)

--Are blogs taking over the world? No, they aren't. And I'm sick of reading about people who write for Gawker media -- an enterprise which has, I think, passed its peak. Now that she's quit Wonkette Ana Maria Cox is pretty much famous for being the venue that launched Washingtonienne.

--A Catholic high school has forbidden its students from blogging and online social networking, mainly to protect them from sexual predators. High school, it seems, is like being in China (or Pakistan).

Sarah Macdonald's Holy Cow: An Indian Adventure

I recently taught Sarah Macdonald's irreverent travel narrative, Holy Cow: An Indian Adventure in my Travel Writers class. Though I'd been worried about how it would go over, Macdonald's book really seemed to click with my students. Her hip style and irreverence actually woke up some students who had, up to this point, seemed somewhat bored by our discussions of travel, colonialism, and the Indian diaspora.

Though I believe my students learned some things from the book overall, Macdonald does hit some off notes. For instance, take Macdonald's discussion of the eponymous cow, which follows a description of Indian traffic rules:

I've always thought it hilarious that Indian people chose the most boring, domesticated, compliant and stupid animal on earth to adore, but already I'm seeing cows in a whole different light. These animals clearly know they rule and the like to mess with our heads. The humpbacked bovines step off median strips just as cars are approaching, they stare down drivers daring them to charge, they turn their noses up at passing elephants and camels, and hold huddles at the busiest intersections where they seem to chat away like the bulls of Gary Larson cartoons. It's clear they are enjoying themselves.

But for animals powerful enough to stop traffic and holy enough that they'll never become steak, cows are treated dreadfully. Scrany and sickly, they survive by grazing on garbage that's dumped in plastic bags. The bags collect in their stomachs and strangulate their innards, killing the cows slowly and painfully. Jonathan has already done a story about the urban cowboys of New Delhi who lasso the animals and take them to volunteer vets for operations. Unfortunately the cows are privately owned and once they are restored to health they must be released to eat more plastic.

Most of what she says here (especially about India's street cows being unhealthy) is true, but the smug tone bothers me; how is it different from the old type of colonial travel narrative (i.e., Katherine Mayo) that aims to ridicule the "natives"?

Macdonald gets much more interesting and informative as she moves from being a passively observing traveler making wisecracks to an active participant in India's spiritual marketplace. She samples large-scale events like the the Maha Kumbh Mela in Allahabad, the Our Lady of Health Basilica at Velangani in Tamil Nadu, the Golden Temple in Amritsar, the Sai Baba Ashram near Bangalore, Mata Amritanandamayi's (aka, the Hugging Amma) Ashram in Kerala, and the Tibetan Buddhist center in Dharamsala. She also explores smaller, more marginal traditions, including Vipassana Buddhist meditation (where you don't talk to anyone at all for ten days), the Parsis of Malabar Hill (who come off as very pompous and somewhat delusional), and the now-fading Bene Israel Jewish community. Though she doesn't at any point visit India's major mosques, she does have a chapter on her experience in Muslim-dominated Kashmir.

In each case, Macdonald tries to make her encounter with a given religious tradition personal -- that is, she considers whether the religion she encounters is something she can connect with, and whether it's something she would want in her life in an ongoing way. She shows a willingness not only to try different things, but to actively immerse herself in various religious practices and belief-systems. It's hard to know how seriously to take it: she dabbles in not just one or two but ten different religious traditions in the course of two years, but Macdonald does structure her book as a kind of personal spiritual journey -- where each of the major religious traditions she encounters gives her something to take home.

Despite the personal element, Macdonald's book remains somewhat ethnographic: there are substantial paragraphs explaining how Jainism works, the basic principles of Zoroastrianism, and so on. And actually, what might be the most interesting ethnographic work she does isn't about Indian religion per se so much as the culture of foreign travelers who go to India for "spiritual tourism." The chapter on the large numbers of young Israelis in the mountains is especially interesting. I noticed this myself when I was in Leh (Ladakh) two years ago: everywhere you go, you see signs for restaurants serving "Israeli" cuisine. There are special Israeli-only hostels, not to mention ubiquitous young people speaking Hebrew. The Israeli kids go to India to party (cheap drugs, no parents), to experiment with things like Tibetan Buddhism, and more than anything else to get a break after their mandatory military service. Some explore alternative/mystical forms of Jewish spirituality (Macdonald goes to a Seder that resembles a rave), while others stay fairly close to conservative and orthodox Judiam. In this vein, Macdonald has a particularly surreal conversation with a Lubavitcher Rabbi (!) who runs a synagogue in Dharamkhot.

Also good is Macdonald's take on the American Sikhs who have a small school in Amritsar (for American Sikh children). There she participates in a Kundalini class, and has a conversation with a teacher named Guru Singh:

For a time my cynicism is suspended and I'm in on the group high. The singalong of self-love has created a New Age ring of confidence in the room. Guru Singh oozes happiness in himself, his faith and his music. He gives me a CD of songs he's made with Seal, called Game of Chants, and shows me references by Jane Fonda and Pierce Brosnan. I tell him Courtney Love said sat nam at the MTV awards and showed me some Kundalini Yoga moves when I interviewed her at Triple J [an Australian television variety show], but I can't resist adding that she then put her cigarette out in my coffee. . . . The song and panting stuff may be kind of fun but I'm skeptical of this form of yoga; mainly because the first Sikh guru was critical of the practice and believed service to others was a better way to God. This new version of Sikhism seems to be a synthesis of age-old knowledge and modern self-loving Americanism--its saccharine self-absorbed smugness is a bit much for me.

No really, tell us what you really think!

In general, I would recommend Macdonald's book despite its occasional off notes. While Holy Cow is unlikely to tell you anything you don't already know (that is, if you know India well), it might be a good present for a curious colleague or friend (or their kids).

My Semi-Serious Oscar Picks (and a film about Indian Jews in Israel)

In the interest of not being too serious, let's talk Oscar.

Best Picture: Brokeback Mountain
Capote
Crash
Good Night, and Good Luck
Munich

Did you notice that all five films begin with letters at or before the letter 'M'? I've sometimes felt that films with letters closer to the beginning of the alphabet do slightly better, because they sit closer to the top of movie listings and such. Interestingly, every Best Picture Winner since the year 2000 has also started at or before 'M': Million Dollar Baby, Gladiator, A Beautiful Mind, Lord of the Rings. (In the 1990s, the ratio of A-M and N-Z is 1 to 1)

I'm not really sure who's going to win -- I haven't seen Crash or Munich. But I saw the other three, and I can't see the award going to Good Night, and Good Luck, because it's such a small film (Oscar likes big and sweepy). And Capote is too cold and amoral (Oscar likes a moral, and Capote questions about the viability of the death penalty is arguable). Because I read so many mixed reviews of Crash, my money's on Munich or Brokeback Mountain. While most people are predicting Brokeback Mountain because of all the hype this spring, it's always dangerous to bet against Stephen Spielberg...

It's possible that Best Picture will go to Brokeback Mountain, while the Best Director award will go to Spielberg and Munich.

On Documentaries, I did recently watch Murderball (the film about quadroplegic rugby players), which is a long-shot against March of the Penguins, but a damn good documentary nonetheless. I'm also trying to figure out how Werner Herzog's Grizzly Man wasn't nominated; that is a really brilliant and philosophically challenging film.

I have a gut feeling that Capote will win Best Adapted Screenplay, because it's a movie about a writer on the verge of greatness, and films about writers writing tend to ring the "well-written" bell, if you see what I mean. Capote should also win for Phillip Seymour Hoffmann in the Best Actor. (Best Actress is harder to read, isn't it? Reese Witherspoon was good in Walk the Line, but it was a pretty conventional role. Hard to compare her to more radical roles like Judi Dench in Mrs. Henderson Presents or Felicity Huffman in Transamerica)

I haven't seen any of the Foreign Films this year, though I would encourage the committee in India who chooses which films to select to send to the Academy for pre-nomination to look carefully at the films on this list. Note that none of them look anything like Paheli! I get the feeling that the government committee is a bit cut off from the rest of the world. Something like 15 Park Avenue might have had more of a chance; mostly the official Indian submissions tend to be pretty ridiculous choices.

* * * *


Now to be just a little more serious.

In a couple of weeks, I'm going to be on a panel at Lehigh talking about a recent Israeli film called Turn Left at the End of the World (also see IMDB).

The film is about the interaction between Indian and Moroccan immigrants to Israel in the 1960s. Beginning as early as 1949, Indian Jews were invited to 'return' to Israel, and the immigrants placed by the Israeli government in rural settlements, often based on where they came from in India. Jews from the Bene Israel community in Bombay tended to end up in a desert town called Beersheva (where they struggled), while Cochin Jews tended to go to more agriculturally-friendly places in other parts of the country (where they prospered). There are now about 60,000 Bene Israel Indians in Beersheva, with less than 5000 remaining in Bombay.

I got to watch a preview copy of Turn Left at the End of the World last night, and it is actually a lot of fun; it stars a well-known Indian actor named Parmeet Sethi, as well as some actual Indian Israelis (Liraz Charchi, pictured above, is particularly impressive as Sarah Talkar). Judging from some articles I've been reading, the film's portrayal of the integration of the Bene Israel Jews in Beersheva in the later 1960s is probably a little too upbeat. In real life, the Indian Jewish communities tended to remain somewhat segregated from the mainstream of Israeli society, and the Bene Israel community in particular had to struggle to get official recognition as proper Jews. But that's a quibble; if you see this film playing anywhere, definitely go see it.

Does anyone have any recommendations for further reading on Indian Jews, either in India or Israel?

(Oh, and what are your Oscar picks and why?)

Dubya In India (and the "Fresh Prince" in Bombay)

President Bush just landed in India. Here are some links that stand out to me regarding the visit and the proposed nuclear deal:

1. A poll published in Outlook India shows that Bush's approval rating in India is higher than it is here in the U.S. (So maybe one shouldn't take the 100,000 protestors from Muslim groups and the Left in Delhi as the definitive voice of India.)

2. Bernard Gwertzman of the Council on Foreign Relations, does a Q&A in the New York Times on the nuclear deal, explaining some of the details of the proposed deal, and why there's been difficulty ironing out the kinks.

3. Fred Kaplan, writing in Slate, suggests that the nuclear deal the U.S. is negotiating with India isn't legal under the NPT, which the U.S. has signed even if India hasn't. Moreover, quite a number of folks are likely to be bothered by a possible deal, and a number of UN organizations are going to step in to try and block it after signing:

First, the United States has no authority to grant such an exemption on its own. The NPT is a treaty signed by 187 nations; it is enforced by the International Atomic Energy Agency; and it is, in effect, administered by the five nations that the treaty recognizes as nuclear powers (the United States, Russia, China, Britain, and France). This point is not a legal nicety. If the United States can cut a separate deal with India, what is to prevent China or Russia from doing the same with Pakistan or Iran? If India demands special treatment on the grounds that it's a stable democracy, what is to keep Japan, Brazil, or Germany from picking up on the precedent?

Second, the India deal would violate not just international agreements but also several U.S. laws regulating the export of nuclear materials.

In other words, an American president who sought to make this deal would, or should, detect a myriad of political actors that might protest or block it—mainly the U.N. Security Council, the Nuclear Suppliers' Group, and the U.S. Congress. Not just as a legal principle but also as a practical consideration, these actors must be notified, cajoled, mollified, or otherwise bargained with if the deal has a chance of coming to life.

The amazing thing is, President Bush just went ahead and made the pledge, without so much as the pretense of consultation—as if all these actors, with their prerogatives over treaties and laws (to say nothing of their concerns for very real dilemmas), didn't exist.

So even if the deal is signed (which is by no means guaranteed), it may not stick. Can it really be that the administration is unaware of the complications? What could their motivations for signing this be if it's unlikely that anyone will start shipping nuclear fuel to India anytime soon?

4. Arundhati Roy singles out Bush's planned visit to Rajghat (the Gandhi memorial park) as something that will cause millions of Indians to "wince." I don't know; I think most Indians are perfectly comfortable with unlikely appropriations of Gandhi's image and legacy (just as civil rights activists in the U.S. have gotten used to Republicans wantonly quoting MLK).

Other than that, Roy's best zinger on Bush's travel plans is about his choice of venue:

Ironic isn't it, that the only safe public space for a man who has recently been so enthusiastic about India's modernity, should be a crumbling medieval fort?

Not much of a bite there.

5. Forget Bush-Manmohan and the Nuclear Deal! Will Smith is in Bombay, making prognostications about the merger of Bollywood and Hollywood.